Beaches of Sardinia: Buggerru

The village of Buggerru is located on the west coast of Sardinia, in that part of the territory calledIglesiente. The country is characterized by buildings that are arranged like a fan, and is located on the sea mouth of an inaccessible valley, the channel Malfidano, which gave its name to the most important mine in the area.

In the early twentieth century, the population of Buggerru was even five times the current one; this is because in those years the town lived the most flourishing period of its mines. At that time the country was called “petite Paris” or “Little Paris”. But over the managers of the mines, there were the miners who lived in inhumane conditions, underpaid and forced to work grueling shifts, often victims of fatal accidents at work. In 1904, following the intensification of the working conditions, the miners refused to work and the French company that owns the mine called the army that opened fire on the workers, killing three and injuring many others. That Sunday, September 4, 1904 will be remembered as the date of the massacre of Buggerru.

Near the village is the wildest coast of the island. High and steep, on the south on the bay of Cala Domestica, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful, well protected at the end of a rocky fjord guarded by a Spanish tower. On the small beach were once boarded the minerals extracted. The coast to Capo Pecora is low and sandy, protected by high dunes.

On the coast of the town of Buggerru there are numerous places to visit, the best known are:

  • “Portixeddu Beach” – Riu Mannu (i.e. Big Stream)
  • BeachIs Compingius”  or “Is Compinxius” (ie: The Pines)
  • BeachIs Compingieddus”  or “Is Compinxeddus(ie: The Little Pines)
  • San Nicolò Beach” or “San Nicolao Beach”
  • Cove Aqueduct
  • Punta Eagle’s Nest with high cliffs (up to 36 m.) and Stacks(Faraglioni)
  • “Buggerru Beach”
  • Coast of Pranu Sartu with high cliffs (up to 122 m.) and Stacks
  • Cove of Cala Domestica and Cala Domestica beach

These are just some of the places to visit, if you want a complete list please email us.

I know it is not the first time I say that …. but the place is really beautiful and probably you will not know which way to turn and what to watch!!!

Gps Coordinates of Buggerru Village: 39.399722, 8.40243

Gps Coordinates of “Is Portixeddu”: 39.43559, 8.412952

Gps Coordinates of “Domestica Cove” 39.373402, 8.380015

Beaches of Sardinia: Stintino

Another beautiful beach, another place that you have to visit. This time we are in Stintino, a small town in the far north-western part of this wonderful island. Stintino has one of the most beautiful coasts of the entire region, with its white sandy beaches, crystal clear waters and one of the most beautiful seas in the Mediterranean, such as the well-known beach La Pelosa ‘.

The north-western tip of Sardinia is an area of ​​rocks and mediterranean maquis inhospitable, sparsely inhabited. The only town is Stintino. The strip of land that juts out to the north-west, culminating in the island of ‘Asinara has white beaches in the east, while to the west are cliffs. Before Stintino there are the beaches  of “Le Saline” and “Ezzi Mannu” overlooking the Gulf of the Asinara with fine white sand and a sea that is among the most transparent of Sardinia.
In front of the promontory there is the Asinara Island, a former penal colony and now a nature reserve.

From Stintino is also possible to buy a ticket to visit the Island of the Asinara. You can visit the old penal colony, or you can hike or go mountain biking. For more informations about the National Park of The Asinara and the ferry timetable visit: http://www.parcoasinara.org .

La Pelosa“: great beach for families: walking for a few tens of meters in a water incredibly clear and low, in front of the island of Asinara and the Aragonese tower: a postcard! Very crowded during the summer.
Continuing Capo Falcone arrives at Pelosetta, a smaller beach that faces the open sea.

Le Saline“: more anonymous than “La Pelosa” , but less crowded and with beach resorts; the beach is not sand but small pebbles. A more intimate beach for those who love the sea without the crowd.

Ezzi Mannu“: is located about 10 km before reaching Stintino along the SP34. Going in the direction of Stintino after about 3 km from the junction to Pozzo San Nicola, follow the signs for Ezzi Mannu. Lonely beach, wild, isolated dunes behind it and a beach of white sand and small pebbles. It is served by two large car parks where parking is also available for campers.

Gps Coordinates of “La pelosa” Beach: 40.966350, 8.208246

Gps Coordinates of “Le Saline” Beach: 40.903322, 8.238115

GPS Coordinates of “Ezzi Mannu” Beach: 40.875135, 8.266311

Wines of Sardinia: The Cannonau

Red Wine Cannonau DOC

The most typical wine of Sardinia

The Cannonau is the wine that perhaps more than any other is associated with Sardinia. The cultivation of the vine has spread throughout the island, but finds his election environment in the inner areas. Recent studies that are still ongoing, show  the presence  of oenological practices in Sardinia since the nuragic era, and you might assume the presence of Cannonau in Sardinia at the time of the Spanish domination, to which it is thought to date back  its introduction.
The Cannonau occupies thirty percent of the planted area of Sardinia, and its cultivation is concentrated to over 70% in the Province of Nuoro. Yields per hectare are never very high, reaching an average of 8 tons. The wine is characterized by a typical and particular fineness of taste and scent, variable from zone to zone. It comes with a good structure and with
smell and taste sensations that recall, in various forms, flowers or red fruits, fresh, that veer towards the more mature notes of jam and hot spicy nuances in the type Riserva or liqueur. The Denomination of Controlled Origin qualifies as Cannonau di Sardegna.

Doc Cannonau di Sardegna

Grape: Cannonau min. 90%, max. 10% other red grapes suitable for cultivation in the region of Sardinia.

Production Area: Whole territory of Sardinia

Yield in wine: Max. 70% in wine

Alcoholic content: Rosé (min.12,5°); Red (min. 12,5°); Riserva (min. 13,0°); Liquer Dry (min. 18,0°); Liquer sweet (min. 16,0°)

Type: Rosé, Red, Riserva, Liquer Dry, Liquer Sweet

Sub-denominations: Oliena o Nepente di Oliena; Capo Ferrato; Jerzu

vino,olio di oliva,cannonau,vermentino,moscato,malvasia,cagnulari,carignano

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Wines of Sardinia: The Vermentino

Vermentino DOC and DOCG

An Elegant White Wine

Vermentino is another typical wine of Sardinia and its wine production. This variety arrived in Sardinia via Corsica in the late 1800s. From granitic soils of Gallura in which has found its ideal habitat, then spread throughout the island. The Vermentino grown in Sardinia gives a wine of great personality which is not found with other Italian and foreign wines, even if obtained from the same grapes. The vine is now present all over the island, and thanks to the different growing environments the wine shows different characteristics and personalities depending on the area of production. In steady and strong growth the consumption of Vermentino seems to know no crisis. The grape Vermentino is currently used for the DOCG Vermentino of Galluraand the DOC Vermentino of Sardinia”, Alghero Sparkling Vermentino ” and “Cagliari Vermentino”. The Vermentino of Gallura shows an intense straw yellow color and bright gold reflections, intense and elegant aromas of ripe fruit with white pulp, broom, herbs. In the mouth it offers a feeling of softness and fresh acidity with a final of warm mineral notes.

DOCG Vermentino of Gallura

Grape: Vermentino min. 95%, max. 5% of other non-aromatic white grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the region of Sardinia.

Production Area: Whole territory geographically defined  Gallura”

Wine yield: Max. 70%

Alcoholic content: Min. 11,0°; Min. 12,0° for Superior

Type: Superior

DOC Vermentino of Sardinia

Grape: Vermentino min. 85%, max. 15% of other non-aromatic white grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the region of Sardinia.

Production Area: Whole territory of Sardinia

Wine yield: Max 65%

Alcoholic content: Min. 10,5°; min.11,0° for the sparkling wine

Type: Sec, Agreeable, Sparkling wine

DOC Alghero Sparkling Vermentino

Grape: Vermentino Min. 85%, Max. 15% of other non-aromatic white grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the region of Sardinia.

Production Area: Whole territory of  the municipality of Alghero, Olmedo, Ossi, Tissi, Usini, Uri, Ittiri, and part of the municipality of Sassari

Wine yield: Max 70%

Alcoholic content: Min. 10,5°;

Doc Cagliari Vermentino

Grape: Vermentino min. 85% max. 15% of other non-aromatic white grape varieties suitable for cultivation in the region of Sardinia.

Production Area: Whole territory of  the municipality of Cagliari and Oristano.

Wine yield:Max. 70%

Alcoholic content: Min. 10,5°, Vermentino “Superior”, Min. 12°;

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“Pane Frattau” – Sardinia style lasagna

Another traditional recipe for you: “pane frattau”. This is a recipe that when prepared in the traditional manner, involving the characteristic, unleavened Sardinian bread “pane carasau” with the use of mutton broth(used to soften the bread), and transforming it into a sort of lasagna, supporting layers of tomato sauce and pecorino cheese. A light version can be prepared with the normal meat broth (or even vegetable) or again, only with salt water.

Ingredients:

  • Pane Carasau : 8 sheets(or more it depend on how many are you; usually we prepare it with 3 layers of bread) of “pane carasau”.
  • Tomato sauce
  • Garlic(optional, for the sauce)
  • Onion(optional, for the sauce)
  • Basil
  • Salt
  • Olive oil
  • Broth
  • 4 Eggs/one for each plate)
  • Pecorino cheese(mature and freshly grated)

For the Sauce

  • 800 gr of tomato sauce preferably Italian
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 clove of garlic, peeled and cut into slivers
  • 1 onion, peeled and coarsely cut
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 large fresh basil leaves

As I said above, garlic and onion are optional. I  usually prefere to use only salt, olive oil and basil for the sauce. But the italian tomato sauce is usually made with onion and sometimes garlic.

Place the tomato in a saucepan with the olive oil, garlic, onion, salt to taste and the basil leaves; simmer for about 20 minutes. Add water if it seems to be reducing.

In the meantime, put the broth previously prepared (or just salt water) in a pot large enough to hold a sheet of “pane carasau” bread (or a part of it big enough). When it boils, dip the bread for a few seconds(about 40 seconds,this should only soften and not become  a mush).

Set the first sheet of pane carasau, rough side down, on each individual plate. Pour the tomato sauce – very warm- over each sheet (smooth side up) and spread it out gently. Add grated cheese. Set the second sheet of bread and repeat. Again with the third. To finish, break 1 egg in the broth and carefully, using a small spoon, fold the white over the egg yolk; simmer for 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the poached egg onto the bread and tomato sauce of one of the dishes. Repeat the same procedure with the other 3 eggs. Add tomato and sprinkle lots of grated cheese over the plates and serve, still very warm.

Vino Cannonau (red and strong wine of Sardinia) is the standard for this dish, but you can also try a bottle of Cagnulari or Carignano served at 14-16°C.

 

Trip to the beach of Piscinas

If you are looking for a lovely place with yards and yards of beach between you and the nearest beach umbrella, in an unspoiled landscape, in the dunes of white sand and the remains of an ancient mine then Piscinas beach will not disappoint you. We left very early (it is not always easy to organize a trip with three small children ) and went south towards Oristano along the SS131 (the same thing you can do if you leave from Cagliari, reaching up to Sanluri and turning in the direction of Guspini) . After about an hour  we have arrived at Oristano, we kept always on the SS131 and we went out in Marrubiu and continued in the direction of Terralba and then Guspini. After Guspini continue to Arbus and Fluminimaggiore on the SS126. Few kilometers after Arbus turns on the SP66 in the direction of “Ingurtosu.” Here the landscape changes radically: it goes from plain to mountainsthrough a nature of incredible colors and after admiring breathtaking views at every turn along a route that takes us back to the past in this area and it’s mining exploitation. Indeed the ruins of the structures of the mining period are numerous and striking and they create an atmosphere and a landscape of a ghost town of  the Far West. Continue straight ahead until you see the road sign to the hotel “Le Dune” and the beach of Piscinas. In the final stretch  you go before in the middle of an old mining village, and then in the midst of towering sand dunes. What awaits us at the end is a view that leaves you speechless: the open sea in front of us (immediatly deep) and at our sides about 7 kilometres of sand. We are in a true oasis of peace, a million years away from progress and from the rest of the world. Not too far from the shore, lying for more than 200 years, the wreck of a ship carrying lead; will be sufficient a diving mask and a swim to admire the load of lead, the outline of the wreck and a cannon protruding from the sand.

And if you love walking, you can walk the path that leads from the SP66 Ingurtosu to Montevecchio (when we went the road was closed to the passage of cars). The street from the point of view of nature is spectacular: you find yourself immersed in the green and everywhere you turn you can see the remains of the old mine. The road will take you close to an old hotel for miners, near a reservoir (basin Zerbino), and in the midst of beautiful valleys.

GPS coordinates Beach Piscinas: 39.539841, 8.449924

 

Tergu – Nuragic Fortress and Church of N.S. of Tergu

Nuragic fortress of Monte Elias

What can be seen from the nuragic fortress of  Monte  Elias is one of the most beautiful scenery ever . If you’re lucky and if you are around there on a nice day, your sight can wander throughout the Gulf of Asinara, on the one hand as far as Porto Torres and Stintino, on the other until the Red Island.

We were a little disappointed by the nuragic remains , because barely visible and unappealing (when we went there was tall grass …), but all three times we were there, we found along the way (a little more of a lane in the middle of an amazing countryside) a pair of wild boars and a little further on, to the delight of children, a pigsty with many little piglets. Perhaps for what I have just said could  seem that  the place is not worth of being visited, but if we went back three times (the last organized with sandwiches for a picnic lunch) is only because the place from the point of view of nature is really beautiful and the view that you can enjoy from here is truly lovely. The place communicates an intense feeling of peace and well-being. If you are a nature lover you can not miss it.

GPS coordinates of the parking lot of the fortress: 40.882565, 8.711026

Church of N.S. Tergu

Another attraction of this small town is the church of Nostra Signora di Tergu, one of the greatest examples of Romanesque architecture in Sardinia. The church and the remains of the nearby abbey are located in a country setting, accessible via a stone arch which looks out on a large yard accessible from the driveway of the Benedictines. This was a Benedictine abbey and its foundation, according to the Libellus judicum turritanorum (document in the vulgar logudorese probably drafted by a monk in the thirteenth century), can be attributed to the judge of Torres, Mariano I de LaconGunale  (who reigned between 1065 and 1082). The church then is among the possessions of Monte Cassino Abbey from 1122 . The Pseudocondaghe of Santa Maria of Tergu( was an administrative document in use in Sardinia between the 11th and 13th centuries. They are one of the earliest witnesses for the development of the Sardinian language and are an important source for historians of medieval Sardinia) lists 1117 as the date of the consecration of the temple, the construction of which was attended by workers from Lombardy and Pisa. In 1444 the church and the monastery became part of the possessions of the “Arcidiocesi Turritana”. Characteristic is the color given to the church by the cantons of red trachyte. Here, too, the feeling you get is that of peace, and looking at the church you can’t not to think about how it was to be the place in the XII century.

For further information please visit the webpage of the village of  Tergu dedicated to the Church of N.S. of Tergu.

GPS coordinates of the Church: 40.871046, 8.720569

There are different ways to arrive to Tergu, depending on where you start, you can choose the coastal road in the direction of Castelsardo (arrived in loc.Lu Bagnu  turn in the direction of Tergu on SP15) or if you go trough the inside you can take the SP17 taht link Nulvi to Tergu or even from SP672-Sassari-Tempio, you can turn on the SS127 in the direction of Perfugas and then on the SS134 in the direction of Sedini, continuing to Tergu.

Sardinia and wine

Sardinia and wine

Wines, grapes and a bit of history

Until a few years ago you had fragmentary information about the origin of the culture of the wine on the island, in fact some sources believed that he had developed independently, while others that it had been introduced by the Phoenicians or the Carthaginians, and others claimed it was a culture well-known during the Roman period. The most recent findings instead show us how already in the Nuragic Era Sardinians cultivate the vine and wine would produce. According to experts, the Cannonau would be one of the oldest wines of the Mediterranean.

Date back to the Roman period instead some references to the Vernaccia found in the city of Tharros, the ancient Punic-Roman center, of which there are some ruins on the coast near the town of Oristano.  The Roman period and the invasions of the Vandals, was followed by a resumption of winemaking by some monks who introduced new varieties in the island and relaunched the cultivation of the vine planting new vineyards close to the monasteries. But was after the Middle Ages that the cultivation of vines in Sardinia experienced a strong growth, primarily in the area of Oristano, and especially thanks to the work of Eleanor, the famous judge and author of a collection of laws known as theCarta de Logu” that provided inter alia the prohibition to keep badly cultivated vineyards.

In modern times, after the World War II the viticulture of Sardinia continued to prosper, yet always remaining confined to local consumption. A big increase, with subsequent spread to the outside of the island, it was through the efforts of a major private company, the Sella and Mosca.

 

Vines

There are numerous and sometimes little-known indigenous grapes and in recent decades the main producers of wine islanders have struggled trying to restore their value. These vines have found their natural habitat on the island and used in special blends gave rise to wines of high quality. The main ones are:

  • Bovale: there are two variants of Bovale, the “Bovale Sardo” and “Bovale of Spain”, and recent studies indicate that the two varieties are completely different. The first, Bovale Sardo, apparently coming from the wild vine, still very much present in Sardinia. The Bovale of Spain may be joined at the Carignano for characteristics and productivity, and it seems to be a variant of the same
  • Nuragus
  • Vernaccia
  • Cagnulari, typical of Sassari
  • Cannonau is the Sardinian grape symbol of the wine culture. Of very ancient origins, probably nuragic, is grown primarily in the territory of Nuoro (70% of the cultivated area)
  • Arvesiniadu, indigenous grape of Goceano, which was in danger of disappearing.
  • Girò, vine introduced in the Spanish era. In 1972 one of his wine, Girò of Cagliari, got the “Designation of Origin”(D.O.C. Denominazione di Origine Controllata)
  • Malvasia, probably arrived on the island during the Byzantine Era
  • Torbato
  • Monica is a wine considered among the oldest introduced in Sardinia. It is present throughout the region
  • Vermentino from uncertain origins
  • Carignano
  • Nasco, white grape known in Roman times. Its name derives from the Latin muscus i.e. musk probably because of its characteristic aroma
  • Semidano
  • Moscato
  • Albaranzeuli, white grape, of distant Spanish origin. Is common in some areas of Oristano and Nuoro, where it is called Lacconargiu or Lacconarzu. It is currently in danger of extinction
  • Retagliado
  • Caddiu
  • Caricagiola
  • Nieddera

vino,olio di oliva,cannonau,vermentino,moscato,malvasia,cagnulari,carignano

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Surfer’s paradise

If you are a surfer and if you like the pristine beaches, then the beach of Porto Ferro is right for you…Our journey starts from Sassari. We follow the road SS291 from Sassari to Alghero and then continue on SP55bis. After a few kilometers we turn at the fork to Porto Ferro. The road takes us practically on the banks of the sea (a few hundred meters from the end of the road turn right and we are in a parking lot in the middle of the pine forest that reaches a few meters from the sea ).

The first thing you notice is the beauty of the bay we face: we can see the 3 beautiful ancient towers placed one on our left and the other 2 in front of us and in the midlle a sea of ​​fantastic colors. The beach is virtually untouched and people took advantage. In fact, these days I just happened to be next to a couple of guys making out and then quietly bathed naked. Or surrounded by dogs who are brought to the beach by the owners (it is not an authorized beach ) and let loose to turn on their own, or even see groups of young people who organize a bonfire night. In short, they feel free!!!

Among all these people, you can also see groups of surfers who are preparing to sleep and then wake up at dawn on the beach and have fun with the first waves of the day. In fact, Porto Ferro as well as for its beauty is also known for the strong currents (there is a sign at the entrance of the beach that warns of danger) that make the beach a surfer’s paradise throughout the year.

If you want to visit this beautiful place here are the GPS coordinates: 40.682572, 8.205467

 

The Descent of Candelieri

Li Candeleri

Sassari, 14th of August

Also this year on 14th of August will be renewed an event perpetuated through the centuries: the Descent of Candelieri( declared Unesco World Heritage), or Faradda, as it is normally called by the people of Sassari.

The origins date back to the second half of the 13th century, at that time Sassari was under Pisan domination, and the tradition of offering a candle to the Madonna at the eve of the Assumption was imported from Pisa.

In the 16th and 17th centuries, this event took on the form of religious vow formulated by “Gremi“, the ancient trade and craft corporations, and from the town authorities, after numerous plagues hit the town; so ten large wooden candles were offered to the Madonna and this event or better this tradition has been kept alive over the centuries by the Gremi, which have kept up the religious vow to this days.

The Gremi are the protagonists of this event, the current members of these guilds are the descendents of the founders of ancient associations, founded in the medieval following the example of the most important towns of Italy and Spain.

In the 16th and 17th centuries their statutes were laid down and also they obtained a chappel for the celebration of their religious rites.

Their names are:

  • Blacksmiths, the symbols of the trade are the anvil, the hammer and the compass.
  • Stoneworkers, this is the guild of the ancient chisellers, stone hewers and stone cutters.
  • Wayfarers, these were the ancient transporters and travelling salesmen.
  • Farmworkers, also called the Diggers.
  • Carpenters, their patron saint is St.Joseph.
  • Greengrocers, this guild is a testimony of Sassari’s origins as an agricultural town.
  • Cobblers, their patron saint is St.Lucia.
  • Tailors, their symbol is the scissors  and their Candeliere differs from the others due to it’s Baroque style.
  • Builders,their symbols are the set square, the hammer and the compass.
  • Landowners, they were the big owners of the lands used for the cultivation of cereals.

The most important figures of all the ten guilds of “Gremi” are the “Obrieri“, whose job it is to carry the standard.

This is only a short tell of this interesting and great traditional event , now you must come to see the rest!!!

Gps Coordinates of Sassari: 40.726133, 8.5461478

vino,olio di oliva,cannonau,vermentino,moscato,malvasia,cagnulari,carignano

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